You might say a dive bar’s beauty rests in the eye of the imbiber. When it comes to The BrickHouse Bar & Grill in Fuquay-Varina, the beauty is also in the palate of the diner — and you should strongly consider paying a visit.
Situated on an accessible corner in the Varina business district, this watering hole checks all the boxes for a legit dive bar — low ceilings (painted black, of course), scuffed walls, timeworn pool tables, ragged stools, neon signs, and graffiti-laden bathrooms.
Along with its rough-and-tumble aesthetics, there’s no hint of pretense. What you will find, though, is a dedicated staff committed to delivering quality drinks, food, and service in an edgy setting with welcoming good vibes.
“We have a daytime crowd and a nighttime crowd, and we’ve upped our game with the craft cocktails,” says bartender Patrick Patterson. “I love how diverse it is. We have people of all ages and backgrounds who come in.”
Whether you’re looking for craft beer staples like Foothills, Red Oak, and Wicked Weed, or something more uptown creative such as a watermelon daiquiri or an espresso martini, you won’t be disappointed here.
Lest you think The BrickHouse is only a late-night drinking establishment, allow us to introduce you to emerging chef and general manager Eddie Forbis.
Chef and manager Eddie Forbis
“We’re really trying to elevate what we do, and that includes what comes from the kitchen,” Forbis says with a winsome, down-to-earth tone.
“We don’t want to be known just for chicken wings or fried pickle chips,” he says, adding that his approach to food is to “make it fun.”
“We’re not serving up frozen food that’s going into to the fryer,” he continues. “What you’re getting is fresh, exciting food that shows we don’t just do hand-crafted cocktails here. We take pride from the front and back of the house.”
On the day we showed up for the Main & Broad photo shoot, Forbis finessed half a dozen mouthwatering appetizers and a trio of bangin’ smashburgers. And he would have served up even more menu items had time allowed.
If you’re wondering where to start, try the garlic parmesan fries or preserved lemon hummus (yes, you read that correctly).
“The kick in the hummus comes from the crispy chili oil,” Forbis says. “I wanted to switch it up a bit and give it some flair.”
Don’t miss the addictive pork belly bites.
Appetizers are a mix of familiar and sophisticated, such as preserved lemon hummus with crispy chili oil and garlic parmesan fries.
“The pork is slow cooked for 10 hours and cooled overnight, then it’s sliced into bite-sized pieces,” Forbis explains. “I make an Old Fashioned-style bourbon glaze with some crushed red pepper and serve the bites in a rocks glass with a cherry to mimic the drink.”
Among the appetizers, the shareable party cheese ball is the most ambitious. It contains goat cheese, parsley, scallions, and roasted red pepper rolled in a crumble with Fig Newtons and toasted walnuts.
“(Chef) Jake Wood and I came up with the recipe,” Forbis says. “He helped me learn to think outside the box.”
The two men worked together at the now-defunct 18 Seaboard in Raleigh, the Capital City’s Plates Neighborhood Kitchen, and, most recently, Lawrence Barbecue in Durham.
Front and center on the grub menu are tempting, well-seasoned burgers. Choose between the Classic with American cheese, onions, and pickles; the Cajun-style Voodoo involving pepper jack cheese, pickled jalapenos, voodoo chips, and special sauce; and the showstopper Billy Da Kid encompassing onion straws, barbecue sauce, smoked provolone cheese, and crispy bacon.
“The barbecue sauce is a mix of reduced Dr Pepper and Sweet Baby Ray’s, and the onion straws are soaked in buttermilk and Frank’s hot sauce,” Forbis reveals. “The burgers are all very approachable.”
If you’re in the mood for something different, order the CBR sandwich, which features a fried chicken breast, bacon aioli, and crushed Cool Ranch Doritos.
Forbis with his son Jamison
Forbis sources beef from Fuquay Meat Market. Some of the fresh vegetables come from the State Farmer’s Market, and bread for the grill’s chicken salad sandwich is made by nearby Stick Boy Bread Co.
Though he’s often a lone wolf in the kitchen, Forbis is quick to point out that he relies heavily on girlfriend Chelsea Parks, who bartends at The BrickHouse once a week and assists him with prepping in the kitchen, special events, and more.
“In addition, she does a great job holding down things at home and taking care of Jamison, our son,” says Forbis.
Forbis also is grateful for the dedicated staff of bartenders, bouncers, and bar backs who ensure a good time is had by all.
“They are the backbone of the bar, and we all have each other’s backs,” Forbis says. “I’m also thankful to owner Tracey Ciliberto for trusting Chelsea and me to help run the business.”
The BrickHouse offers daily specials on drinks and weekly specials on food.
Hours of operation span from 3 p.m. to 2 a.m. on weekdays and from noon to 2 a.m. on Saturday and Sunday. Be advised: The full kitchen is open Thursday through Saturday from 5–11 p.m. and Sunday from noon to 5 p.m. A limited menu is offered Monday through Wednesday. An outdoor patio is available.
The BrickHouse Bar & Grill
213 Fayetteville St., Fuquay-Varina
(919) 346-1204
@brickhouse_fuquay
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Hello I was just wondering if you guys are hiring 17 year old part timers, if so my resume is linked below.